We are tired of the aggressiveness of the environment, so any words about naturalness and purity go “with a bang”. Recently, it has been popular to divide cosmetics into synthetic and natural, emphasizing the shortcomings of the first and the charms of the second. But in fact, bio cosmetics are not always better. And sometimes worse.
Since in the 30s of the last century, oil was used to produce cheap emulsifiers, solvents and moisturizers, cosmetics have become a common part of every woman’s life. British scientists have calculated that each of us is daily confronted with 515 chemicals that are part of self-care products – there may be 11 of them in hand cream, 29 in mascara, 33 in lipstick … It is not surprising that such a vigorous cocktail often does not benefit the appearance – it causes dry skin, clogs pores, provokes allergic reactions. Trying to solve these problems, many are switching to biocosmetics, consisting mainly of natural ingredients. After all, if bio-kefir is more useful than usual, then such a comparison is fair for cosmetics?
The current biocosmetics is produced according to strict rules, all products undergo a series of severe safety tests, the manufacturer must grow raw materials for its products in ecologically clean areas or purchase under contract on eco-farms, do not violate ethical rules in production, do not conduct animal tests, do not use artificial dyes, flavors, preservatives… Manufacturers of biological products even make “black” lists of synthetic ingredients. They included parabens (preservatives), TEA AND DEA (emulsifiers), sodium lauryl (foaming agent), petroleum jelly, dyes, flavors.
The quality of the bioproduct is guaranteed by certificates. Russia does not have its own certification system, so we focus on those that are recognized in the world. Typical examples:
BIO standard developed by the French certification committee Ecocert and the organization of independent manufacturers Cosmebio. Prohibits the use of ingredients of animal origin (except for those whose removal does not harm animals, for example, beeswax). At least 95% of all ingredients must be of natural origin and be obtained from crops growing in ecologically clean areas.
The BDIH standard developed in Germany. Excludes the use of GMOs, chemical processing of the initial ingredients should be minimal, wild plants are preferable to specially grown ones, animal tests and animal ingredients extracted from vertebrates (whale spermaceti, mink oil, etc.) are prohibited.
The NaTrue standard, developed by the largest manufacturers in Europe together with the bodies of the European Commission and the Council of Europe. Evaluates the quality of natural cosmetics according to its own system of “stars”. Three “stars” receive completely organic products. Petrochemicals, for example, mineral oil, are banned.
Disadvantages of biocosmetics
But even all these strictures do not make biocosmetics definitely better than synthetic.
- Often causes allergies
Synthetic cosmetics, or rather, its individual ingredients – perfumes, preservatives and dyes – often cause allergies. There are none in biocosmetics, and if there are, then at a minimum. But there are difficulties here. Powerful allergens are many natural substances that are part of bio-products. Severe allergic reactions can provoke arnica, rosemary, calendula, currant, wormwood, honey, propolis. Therefore, before buying another remedy, conduct a skin test and check if there will be a reaction.
- Limited shelf life
Usually from 2 to 12 months. There are products that need to be stored only in the refrigerator. On the one hand, this is fine – it means that the evil preservative did not get inside the jar. On the other hand, there is a very high probability of “poisoning”. If you did not notice that your cream with yogurt is expired, or the store did not comply with the storage rules, pathogens, for example, staphylococcus, could have started in it. After you put the cream on your nose, microbes through microcracks, which are always on the skin, will penetrate into the body and begin their subversive activities there.
- “Natural” does not mean “environmentally friendly”
Raw materials for biocosmetics really contain fewer harmful impurities. But not always. A typical example is lanolin, “wool wax”, which is obtained by washing sheep wool. In its natural form, it contains a huge amount of chemicals, which are then “etched” with solvents.
Letters and numbers on the package
The mere use of the prefix “bio” does not make cosmetics better. Much, if not all, depends on the manufacturer. It should be a serious company with a research base, finances for conducting tests and clinical trials. Carefully read what is written on the package. All ingredients are listed in descending order. If the product is declared as a storehouse of chamomile or, say, calendula, and they are in the last places in the list of ingredients, it means that in reality the cat has not cried enough of this substance in the tube. Another important indicator is that high-quality natural cosmetics are sold in natural packaging – it can be glass, ceramics or biodegradable plastic.